Super Nintendo Entertainment System Refurbish: Codename "Rico" (Part 1)
Visual Inspection of Device
This is a project that I have been wanting to do for a while. I have been inspired by people that have been restoring old gaming consoles, and I want to start repairing these as well. I have felt a strong urge lately to want to use things for their full potential and restoring old consoles that are being thrown away seems to be a good way to start that.
This post is just meant to go through the disassembly process and take notes of how the machine looks physically.
The reason for this name is quite random. I ordered a couple of broken SNES at the same time and I wanted a naming system that would keep track of them. I asked my girlfriend, 'what would be a good name for this console?' She said, 'Rico.' It is that simple. There are going to be more SNES to look at later, we will see how well this naming scheme plays out.
Start of Visual Inspection
The easiest part of inspecting a newly acquired SNES is by looking at the shell. You have seen a couple of photos of "Rico" already, but following are going to be more in-depth photos. This first photo is to see the color difference of the outer shell to the inner part of the shell. There is a significant difference in the colors of these two plastics. Hopefully in this series of publications I will be able to restore the color in this plastic.
The four pictures after the shell color difference are the corners of the SNES. This is just to show the damage that the unit already has. The corners are in order of front right, front left, back left, and back right. There is also a picture of the bottom for good measure
Inspecting the Insides
The fun part about 'Rico' is that two of the screw standoffs were broken on the inside. So while trying to disassemble it, I needed to use a pliers to help get them off.
Here it is with the top casing off. Look at that color difference of the plastic...
First step is to remove the eject mechanism. The easiest way to do this is to grab the right side of the eject mechanism and lift slightly up. Then grab the metal rod that runs through the mechanism and wiggle it back and forth while slowly pulling it out. This will cause the spring to disengage and allow you to remove it easily. (In the following pictures you can still see the standoffs that were broken off of the case.)
Looking at 'Rico' now you can see some rust on the shield of the board. There is also rust on the casing of the SHVD-SOUND board. The main thing I was trying to look for here is that if it seems like it was liquid damaged. So far so good, no signs of big liquid damage. We will have to look further once we remove the shields.
Time to unscrew the power switch.
One thing to note is that I found more broken plastic inside of 'Rico'. Poor, poor 'Rico'.
At this point I removed the broken standoffs.
Bonus picture of my cat watching me take apart 'Rico'.
Next I disconnected the controller port board from the logic board.
I then removed the screws from the sound board, and disconnected it from the logic board.
And here is the console with the controller port board and sound board removed.
To further disassemble, I removed the screws from the logic board shield. (another bonus picture of my cat.)
Removing the shield is easy once the screws are removed.
Here is the board without the shield. In the picture you can see me pointing my screwdriver at the board's model number. I was hoping for a 1CHIP revision of the board, but you can't win them all. The board itself looks healthy upon a quick visual inspection. There is some gunk by the S-CPU, but I will need to take a closer look at that later.
To fully disassemble, I needed to remove the final screws that are holding the logic board into the bottom casing.
Once those are removed, you can remove the logic board from the bottom case.
TA-DA! All disassembled. From the initial inspection, the electrical components of 'Rico' look pretty promising. The casing however, is a different story. Lots of broken plastic and standoffs which are necessary for the casing to be sealed correctly. I will need to figure out a way to secure the casing together some other time.